Directed by Roger Ross Williams and Johnathan Clasberry
From the low country and our diasporic connection to West Africa, we next to dig into the building of American gastronomy through the colonial era and through the chefs, caterers, bartenders, and entrepreneurs that gave themselves over to professional hospitality work long before it was a revered industry. This episode is perhaps my favorite because it showcases culinary historian and living legend Dr. Leni Sorenson, who is mainly responsible for unearthing and shepherding research at Monticello that reclaims the legacy of the enslaved through the records of Thomas Jefferson. Her research and efforts are primarily responsible for why we know so much about Black life there and that these producers gave room for Dr. Sorensen is powerful in and of itself.
The episode also stands out because it offers a glimpse into how modern chefs pick up the cultural baton of Black culinary history and infuse it into their work. Chef Omar Tate of Honeysuckle Projects, who is fresh off his Stone Barns residency, uses Black culture, art, and history to create highly conceptual pop-ups. Ben Harney, artist, oysterman, and owner of The Real Mother Shucker, reclaims and decolonizes the seafood industry by using the legacy of famed NYC oysterman and restauranteur Thomas Downing as the inspiration for his business. And perhaps most overtly, chefs Brian Dunsmoor and Martin Draluck of Los Angeles restaurant Hatchet Hall focus on the techniques and methodology of the early American kitchens of Hercules Posey and James Hemings.
Locations:
New York, NY
Brooklyn, NY
Staten Island, NY
Philadelphia, PA
Charlottesville, VA Monticello
Los Angeles, CA Hatchet Hall
Episode Subjects:
Adrian Miller, writer, historian
Omar Tate, chef writer, Owner/Chef Honeysuckle Projects
Dr. Leni Sorensen, historian, farmer/owner Indigo House
Niya Bates, Director of African American History, Monticello
Gayle Jessup White, Community Engagement officer, Monticello, Hemings Descendant
Sylvia D’Alessandro, Executive director Sandyground Historical Society
Valarie Erwin, chef
Ben Harney, artists, oysterman, owner/ Chef The Real Mother Shuckers
Brian Dunsmoor, Owner/Chef Hatchet Hall
Martin Draluck, Chef de Cuisine Hatchet Hall
Lauren Monroe, Descendant of the Philadelphia catering family the Dutrieuilles
Patricia Wilson Arden, Former President, The African American Museum of Philadephia
Episode Reading:
Chapters 4, 5, and the first half of 6 of High on the hog are required to absorb this episode. Dr. Harris uses these chapters to talk about the professional lives of Black people free and enslaved from plantation life to entrepreneurship particularly during the colonial era.
Supplement Materials:
The President’s Kitchen Cabinet by Adrian Miller
Aesthetic Vibe:
Episode Menu:
Sweet Potato Biscuits with Virginia Ham and Pickled Mustard Seeds
Oyster Stew with Crispy Oysters and Green Apple Salad
Roasted Veal Chops with Crab Veloute
Macaroni Pie with Truffles and Brie
Braised Artichokes with White wine and capers
Vanilla Ice cream with Baked Meringues, Fresh Fruit, and Gooseberry sauce