Black Chefs You Should Know: Carla Hall

In addition to the greats like Julia Child or Marco Pierre White, there are equally prolific black icons like Patrick Clark, Abby Fisher or Edna Lewis who reshaped the culinary landscape and defined regional cuisines. This series will share their literary works as well as add their names to larger conversations surrounding cuisine and who or what is its original author.

“These books are your start to defining for yourself how our history applies to your life and work, what your contributions to the present will be, and what you’ll do to add to what the future looks like.” Therese Nelson

While many artifacts and oral stories were lost in transition or forgotten through generations, food helps us recall stories of our culture. Carla Hall's Soul Food: Everyday and Celebration ensure that one less story will be forgotten. Carla Hall is a classically trained chef, tv personality and humanitarian who is actively involved in service charities and not for profit organizations. Through several books, she discussed the impact representation and identity on her cooking and trajectory in the industry. Carla has also written: Carla’s Comfort Food: Favorite Dishes from Around the World,  Cooking with Love: Comfort Food That Hugs You and in 2021 a children’s book, Carla and the Christmas Cornbread. 

Hall’s most recent cookbook depicts vivid imagery of home as a place of spiritual awakening and grounding. The difference between southern food and soul food is highly disputed. She explains it’s Black Cooks that make all the difference, “it is like the difference between a hymn and spiritual. Both sound beautiful and express the same message, but the spiritual’s got a groove.” We have it in our soul and I love how she captures what makes us unique and takes pride in her heritage. Her authenticity and desire for food to be simple originally interested me in her work. While I understand the desire for some to combine everything but the kitchen sink on a plate, I’d rather food make sense and make people feel good. The logic behind her vegetable forward recipes are both practical as well as economical recipes. She’s not just another celebrity making claims that we should all eat organically without taking into consideration peoples pocketbooks. She uses common kitchen staples and encourages innovation to create celebratory and comforting meals that “don’t make you feel like you’re going to die afterwards.” Hall acknowledges the benefits of a veggie centric lifestyle in partnership with the importance of locally raised livestock. We were cooking “Farm to Table” long before it became a catchy buzz term and her recipes influenced by her grandmother are a testament to those deep roots in history and in heritage. While I wish she created an entire section for pickles, my latest obsession, I had never heard of pickling Delicata Squash! It’s such an exciting recipe that I will definitely use to enjoy squash all year round.

From Carla Hall's Soul Food: Everyday and Celebration: “Like a lot of African Americans who got to go to culinary school, I couldn't run fast enough from soul food as soon as I was taught European dishes. Early in my career, I was like, “Now I’m educated and I don’t need to do soul food”...I stopped frying chicken and started stewing it in red wine.” She further explains her internal battle with her food identity in a way that many can relate. I too have had those same fears of possibly being typecast or pigeonholed as a chef who can only cook x cuisine and felt the need to pursue European cooking.  Her grandmother was the one to provide generation wisdom on happiness, she said “it's your job to be happy, not rich. If you do that,then everything else will follow.” Her outlook is one that would have saved me  from comparing myself with others. Carla states that this book is more than just a collection of recipes. “You may not see many African-Americans as executive chefs of Michelin-starred restaurants, topping lists, or winning the big awards. Not yet. You don’t see us, but we’re here.” 

I have no idea who said it first but I agree, we have to start giving flowers to people while they’re still here. I see her and the fabulous work she's doing and y’all should too!

2022 James Beard Awards

Along with many organizations over the past several years, the James Beard Foundation sought to reimagine their awards process. They acknowledged systemic biases, restructured internally and created a code of ethics for recipients as well as board members that outline behaviors and practices no longer in line with their mission.

Before I started culinary school in 2018, I recall family members and friends echoing the same fears and concerns about the industry. It was like they had all read the same dark horror story, they were genuinely worried about my physical safety and emotional well-being. I wish their concerns were not grounded in the toxic culture that all too many know so well. While it is not my place to share their stories, compared to some of my classmates I’ve been relatively unscathed. No segment of the industry is immune to exploitative and frankly inhumane work environments. Wether in food media, catering or fine dining, this industry has to change. It begins with organizations holding themselves along with the people they uplift accountable for their behavior.

“The James Beard Awards’ mission is to recognize exceptional talent and achievement in the culinary arts, hospitality, media, and broader food system; as well as a demonstrated commitment to racial and gender equity, community, sustainability, and a culture where all can thrive.”

— James Beard Foundation

These 7 exciting new emerging chefs are representative of everything the new JBF mission claims to uphold. Their blackness is only a small facet of my interest in their work, this years James Beard Foundation semifinalist feature many phenomenal POC. It’s their ability to combine new flavor profiles, reimagine different cuisines, make courageous career changes, and create engaging social platforms that I found truly captivating. See the full list of 2022 Emerging Chef Semifinalist.

Angel Barreto, Anju, Washington, D.C.

Like many before him, his multi- cultural background informs his work as a chef. He is changing the “face” of traditional Korean food in this country.

"Your diaspora does not dictate what you can do in life."

Ideals promoting authenticity and traditionalism are often steeped in racial animus. There is real beauty in connecting with or to another culture through food and cooking it well. I admire his humility. In multiple interviews he rejected titles of expert or authority but rather described himself as “a student of Korean food”.

Kristi Brown, Communion, Seattle

Just like the name implies, Communion takes pride in their ability to bring people together. When describing the pacific north west or specifically my home state of Washington to east coasters, I always being by saying “stop thinking about any city on the east coast”. Although it’s a far cry from middle America, everything moves a lot slower and there is less of a selection. It is still shocking that I can go out to dinner or almost any cuisine at 10 pm during the week in the city. To put it into further prospective, every borough in NY has a larger population than Seattle. The food scene is has only improved with Chef Brown in the mix! Her menu features Southern staples like Greens, utilizing locally sourced produce and a New Orleans by way of Saigon inspired Catfish Po’mi.

Shenarri Freeman, Cadence, NYC

Two unlikely concepts, Vegan Soul Food. Many have theorized on the pros and cons of switching to a vegan diet. In general, most can agreed that Americans consume far too much meat. More specifically, Black Americans are more likely to suffer from preventable diseases like diabetes and high blood pressure. Diet and health disparities are partially to blame. Shenarri Freeman is a powerhouse who’s restaurant has the power to help change this reality. All it takes is one delicious experience to dispel old narratives about “good food” and prove that you can have the same comfort foods without animal products. Vegan Soul Food paired with Wines from Black Wine Makers is a perfect combination in my book.

Cleophus Hethington, Benne on Eagle, Asheville, NC

Benne on Eagle, originally opened by Ashleigh Shanti, was founded on the principle Sankofa. Food and our various cooking practices are physical manifestations of past generation. In surrounding themselves with wealths of knowledge like Senior Culinary Advisor, Hanan Shabazz they honor her history and maintain culinary traditions. Benne on Eagle’s rise to prominence as a community staple and cultural hub, no doubt, is product of their investment in that very community. By way of Chef Hethington they have been able to offer expansive cultural events with local artists. He has also gone on to launch the thriving boutique spice company called Triangular Traded Spices.

“Modern soul food focused on telling the stories of African diaspora, ‘The Block,’ and beyond.”

— Benne on Eagle

Serigne Mbaye, Dakar Nola, New Orleans

Currently operating as a restaurant pop up, Chef Mbaye has modernized Senegalese food through his unique approach to food. He seamlessly tapes into missing lineage that flows between New Orleans and Senegal.

“The story of the dish might be a little different, but the concept is similar.”

With an evolving menu, he prioritizes local and seasonal selections. As way of life for some, I am further reminder that concepts of “Farm to Table” or “Sustainable Living” are only radical because we have become removed from agriculture. With one look at his instagram I was immediately drawn to the vibrant colors and artistic plating of his food.

In addition to nourishing the body, food should excite and inspire others to continue the cycle of conceptualizing, cooking and sharing. Each one of these chef do this and more!

Chris Viaud, Greenleaf, Milford, NH

As the Owner and Chef of two restaurants (Greenleaf & Culture), Chef Viaud is fulfilling a dream held by many in the industry. Having your our own establishment to cook the kind of foods you care about with the people you want is a huge achievement. In the historic town of Milford he approaches food through the lens of farmers, foragers and fish mongers. In addition to having a beautiful venue, Greenleaf is transparent about their sourcing and values. The farm currently listed as their source for beef on the menu is less and an hour from the restaurant. Prominently featured on Bravo’s Top Chef Portland, Chef Viaud made it his goal to shine a light on an otherwise underrepresented food region. Since his time competing he partnered with past Bravo contestants in July to “amplify the idea of food and freedom throughout the African diaspora” through a five course immersive dinner.

Amanda Turner, Olamaie, Austin

Chef, inspiration, activist and culinary icon, all synonymous with Chef Turner. Since becoming Chef de Cuisine, Chef Turner has gained a glowing reputation in the Austin food scene. Although not directly related to this award recognization, she has amassed a cult like following because of her legendary Dungeons and Dragons inspired pop up called Fiery Talon that supports racial justice non profits with every order. Her work at Olamaie brought a new wave of Asian and Latin American influences. In several past interviews, Turner stressed the importance of healthy workspaces. Ones where you make a livable wage, have time off and are able to have a life outside of work. During early points in her career, this was not a reality. Chef Turner is creating a legacy for future generations where inclusion and diversity are assets.